Undergarment construction and method of making the same



J. L. BLACK April 14, 1936.

UNDERGARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 2 1954 2 Sheets-Sheet l 35 INVENTOR jilwzes L ,BZac/c max amh-s 9M ATTORNEYS April 14, 1936. I J. BLACK 2,037,060

UNDERGARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 2, 1954 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 28 32 INVENTOR 26 2 James L. Black BY wo uhwh ATTORNEYS Patente pro 1,, i6

ruoor QONSTRUCTION .r G THE seam of Qhio Application April 2, rear, Serial No. 718,61!

This invention relates to urrdergarment construction and more particularly to undergarments of the so-called ,shorts type and to a method of making the same.

One of the objects of this invention is to provide an undergarment which is light in weight, yet strong and durable and well able to withstand extensive laundering. Another object is to provide an undergarment of the above nature which is simple in design and construction yet attractive in appearance. Another object is to provide an undergarment of the above nature comprising in its entirety a minimum number of individual pieces and accordinglybut few seams. Another object is to provide an undergarment of the above nature in which the crotch and seat portions are of ample fullness thus to preclude binding thereby. Another object is to provide an undergarment of the above nature, the separate pieces of which are substantially regular in shape having few curved edges. provide an undergarment of the above nature which will not bind when the wearer assumes exaggerated or unusual body positions. Another object is to provide a method of making undergarments of the above nature which is practical and which may be inexpensively practiced either .by novices or those skilled in the manufacture of garments. Another object is to provide a method of the above nature which will require a minimum amount of labor and time and which will result in a minimum amount of fabric waste.

Another object is to provide a method of the above nature which may be practiced with little waste in the cutting if the individual pieces. Other objects will be in part obvious and in part pointed out hereinafter.

The invention accordingly consists in the features of construction, combinations of elements, arrangements of parts, and in the several steps and relation and order of each of the same to one or more of the others, all as will be illustratively described herein, and the scope of the application of which will be indicated in the following claim.

In the accompanying drawings, in which certain steps of my method are indicated and'in which is shown one of the various possible embodiments of the novel features of my invention,

Figure 1 is an elevation of one of the front sections of the undergarment;

Figure 2 is an elevation of the other front section of the undergarment;

Figure 3 is an elevation of the rear or seat section of the undergarm'ent;

Another object is to (Cl. $48M) Figure 5 is an elevation of the crotch piece of the undergarment;

Figure 6 is a front elevational view of the i'in- 5 dergarment;

Figure 7 is a rear elevational view of the undergarment;

Figure 8 is a front view of the undergarment, the leg and crotch portions thereof being folded back upon the front of the undergarment, and

Figure 9 is a perspective'view of the undergarment as it appears on a wearer.

Similar reference characters refer to similar parts throughout the several views of the drawings. As conducive to a clearer understanding of certain features of this invention, it might here be pointed out that undergarments of this general type are usually characterized by complexity of construction due to multitudinous seams, thus causing discomfort to the wearer under various circumstances of activity and when the wearer assumes abnormal and exaggerated body positions. Such garments, in order to follow more 1 closely the contours of the anatomy, generally have one or more seams in the seat portion of the garment. After several launderings these seams constitute the weak portions of the garment and when strains are exerted thereon they rip out readily or shrink in such a manner that the further utility of the garment is considerably lessened without extensive and inconvenient repairs. Furthermore, the crotch portions of such garments are so constructed that they bind and chafe the wearer between the legs and hips rather than provide a comfortable fullness when the wearer is in either an erect, seated, or recumbent position. These undergarments might be characterized as form fitting rather than loosely draped about the hips and between the legs of the wearer. Accordingly, when the wearer sits down or stoops over, these undergarments will. cut and bind the legs and hips of the wearer and, when the wearer assumes an erect position, they will gather into a crumpled and wedded mass which will cause considerable discomfort through chafing. One of the objects of this invention is to provide an undergarment in which the above disadvantages as well as many others are effectively eliminated.

be cut from the desired fabric in various different ways, I have found it advantageous to fold the fabric back and forth upon itself until there are a suitable number of layers of fabric alternately front side up and rear side up. Thus it will be seen that when any pattern is cut from the folded fabric, the pieces will be alternately right and left and will, accordingly, not only save considerable waste in the cutting of such pieces, but will also save the time which would otherwise be expended in cutting separately right sections and left sections.

Thus left front section II and right front section III are shaped simultaneously and are substantially similar in shape and size. Referring now to Figures 1 and 2, the horizontal edges I3 and I4 of the sections are substantially parallel, while edge I 2 thereof is at right angles to edge I3; portion I2a thereof curves into edge I I. An edge generally indicated at I5 preferably parallels the greater portion of edge I2 a distance a little over one-half the length of the section, although under certain conditions this edge I5 may be longer or shorter. This portion of. edge I5 terminates in curved portions I6 and I1 having junction at I8. In order that the crotch portion of the garment may be more readily formed, the sections are preferably cut so as to form an edge I9 adjoining edges I3 and I1, edge I9 being at a suitable angle dotted line 2|, forms a facing for the fly of the separate piece of material to give the preferred stiffness and reenforcement to this part of the undergarment.

Referring to Figure 3, the rear section or seat portion generally indicated at 221's cut' prefer-' ably from a pile of fabric of which the individual layers may be alternately rear side or front side up or otherwise as section 22 is symmetrical. Section 22 is preferably formed so that edges 23, 2d, and 25 are respectively at right angles to one another. The bottom edges 26 and 27 of sections 22 are preferably at angles slightly in excess of to edges 23 and 25 respectively, the purpose of which will be pointed out hereinafter. To provide further for the construction 'of the crotch of the undergarment, I have found it preferable to cut from section 22 an inverted U-shaped portion 28 which may be of suitable height and width according to the size of the garment under construction. Also, for purposes to be pointed out hereinafter, I have found it advantageous to cut away the opposite upper corners of sections 22 thus forming slightly curved edges 22a and 22b.

The waistband sectionmay be of any desirable shape. However, I have .found it preferable to cut out a waistband substantially the shape indicated at 29 in Figure 4. Thus the yoke portions 30 and 30a of sections 29 will be wider than the waistband portion M to provide preferably a double layer of fabric which will better withstand wrinkling than would a single layer, and accordingly not only enhance the appearance, but also improve the fit of the undergarment. A further advantage is to be found in providing this double layer in that it offers a firmer foundation for any fastening means which may be incorporated in this part of the undergarment as will be pointed out more fully hereinafter; Under certain circumstances, as, for example, when a piece of elaspieces.

apsaceo tion 29 controls the waist measurement of the undergarment subject, however, to the minimum In any event, however, the length of secand maximum limits of any adjusting means as will be more clearly pointed out hereinafter.

In order to provide a suitable section to complete the crotch construction of the undergarment, I preferably cut from suitable fabric a crotch piece generally indicated at 32 (Figure 5) having straight edges 33, 34, and 35 preferably at right angles to one another, and a curved edge 36, the purpose of which will be pointed out hereinafter. Under certain circumstances, section 32 may be cut from the waste remaining after yoke and waistband section 29 has been shaped, this depending upon the relative widths of yoke portions 30 and 30a and waistband portion 3|.

Thus it will be seen that my undergarment is composed of but few individual pieces, each of which is substantially regular in shape and accordingly having but few curved edges to make the stitching more difficult.

Any suitable order of assembling the several pieces desired may be employed. However, to insure a maximum economy of time and labor, I have found it preferable to stitch edges I2 of front sections I0 and I I (Figures 1 and 2) to edges 23 and 25 of rear section 22 (Figure 3) respectively, thus forming seams 3i and 38, as more clearly shown in Figures 6 and 7. Next, facing portions 20 of sections III and II are folded rearwardly of the front of the sections along line 2i and stitched into folded position by stitching 39 (Figure 6). Thus by folding portions 28, a double thickness of fabric is provided along the edges of the fly portion of front sections it and II, and accordingly obviates the necessity of stiching in separate individual pieces of material to provide the preferred relative stiffness to the fly portion of the garment.

Next yoke portion til of section 29 (Figure 4) is stitched to the front of front section II along edges i i and i5 (Figure 6). As Waistband portion 35 is secured to front section I I and the rear section 22 at portions thereof adjacent seam 38, those portions are gathered together to form a series of small tucks generally indicated at lii,

thus providing ample fullness of the garment to accommodate the bulge ofthe hip portions of the wearer but still providing a snug fitting waist. In a similar manner, waistband portion BI is secured to the upper portions of rear section 22 (see Figure '7) those portions being gathered together to form a series of tucks generally indicat-= ed at All coextensive with edge 28. By gathering rear section 22 into tucks along the waistband, I provide a snug fitting waist, yet insure an ample fullness in the seat portion of the garment to comfortably accommodate the buttocks of the wearer and accordingly preclude uncomfortable binding or creeping of the garment when the wearer assumes exaggerated body positions in the course of violent exercise or the like. Yoke portion we is secured to the front of front section it in a manner substantially similar to that described with reference to yoke 38, and portions of front section III and rear section 22 are gathered together in tucks 40a substantially similar to tucks do. By providing the curved corners 22a, and 22b of rear section 22 (Figure 3) as well as the corresponding portions 82a of sections I0 and III (Figures 1 and 2), described above, a neater op C it pearance and better fit are provided in the vicinity of the tucked portions 40 and 40a.

Preferably front sections l6 and H are stitched together along edges ll (Figures 1 and 2) to form a seam 42 (Figure 6) terminating at the top at stitching 43 and at the bottom at a point 44, point 45 being the common point of edges H and IQ of sections l and H (Figures 1 and 2). Stitching 63 is preferably heavy to provide an adequate safeguard against ripping out seam 42.

To complete the assembly of my undergarment, edge 36 of crotch piece 32 (Figure 5) is stitched to edges IQ of front sections ill and H (Figure 8) which are joined at point M. Curved edge 36 is stitched to rear section 22 along the edge of cut out portion 28 (Figures 3 and 7). By providing crotch piece 32 with curved edge 36, the stitching thereof to rear section 22 is more readily carried out and the bagginess of the seat portion is more readily eifectuated than would be possible if edge 36 were straight. Thus the leg openings of the garment are formed by edges I3 of front sections Ill and H, edges 26 and 21 of rear section 22, and edges 33 and 35 of crotch piece 32 (Figures 6, 7, and 8). As pointed out above, the angles between edges 23 and 25 and edges 26 and 2'! respectively are in excess of 90; accordingly the rear part of the leg portions of the garment exceed in length the front portions. I have found that this construction effectively prevents the rear leg portions from creeping up the back of the wearer's legs when the wearer stoops over or sits down.

As best shown in Figures 6 and 8, edges ii of sections it] and H preferably overlap each other a distance substantially equal to the width of sections 20 (Figure 1). Secured to sections In andll preferably in the vicinity of yoke portions 36 and 30a of section 29 is a plurality of buttons 5 and holes 4511 therefor. Under certain circumstances the position of this opening in the garment might be changed, although the position here shown is deemed most advantageous.

In Figures 6 and '7, I have shown my undergarment provided with small ties 66 and M by which the Waistband can be gathered in or let out, within definite limits, at the will of the wearer. Other methods for obtaining this variation in waist size might be employed, e. g. elastic strips might be substituted for the ties Q6 and t7], all

according to the particular conditions for which my garment is designed as well as to satisfy the tastes of the wearer.

With reference to Figures 6, '7, and 9, it will be seen that I have provided an undergarment wherein the seat and crotch portions are of such ample fullness as to preclude any creeping or binding of the garment as would otherwise ensuepiece 32 and rear section 22 remain in a draped position and do not closely follow the crevice between the buttocks nor bind the sensitive depending portions of the masculine anatoml as would occur were there a seam running down the center'of section 22 and thence between the legs and if all portions of the garment except the waist did not drape loosely about the anotomy of the wearer. By obviating this binding action, edges 26 and 21 of rear section 22 will lie losely along the rear of the wearer's legs and accordingly will not creep up his legs with each succeeding step to form a wadded uncomfortable mass of fabric to shafe the crotch of the wearer. A further advantage accrues in that, due to the absence of seams, the garment is less liable to rip up the back when subjected to strains usually exerted along that portion as when, for example, the wearer stoops over or runs.

Accordingly there has been provided in this invention a construction and method in which the various objects hereinbefore noted, together with many thoroughly practical advantages, are successfully accomplished, and it will be seen that the art may be readily carried on in practice and that the resultant undergarment is well adapted to meet the varying conditions of hard practical use.

.As many possible embodiments may be made of the mechanical features of the above invention and as the art herein described may be varied in various parts, all without departing from the scope of the invention, it is to be understood that all matter hereinabove set forth or shown in the accompanying drawings is to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

I claim:

In garment construction, in combination, a substantially rectangular seamless rear section having an inverted substantially U-shaped portion cut from the lower central portion thereof, a pair of substantially rectangular front sections respectively stitched to the opposite lateral edges of said rear section, the adjacent free edges of said front sections each being shaped to provide fly-forming portions and crotch-forming portions, said free edges being detachably secured together throughout a portion of their extent, a crotch section having one longitudinal edge secured to the crotch-forming portions of said front sections, and another longitudinal edge secured.

to said cut-out portion of said rear section to form a closed crotch for said undergarment, the distance between the top of said rear section and the top of the cut-out portion in said rear section being greater than the distance between the top edge of said front sections and the point at which'the adjacent edges of said front sections are secured to said cratch section whereby said rear section extends laterally from side to side of the wearer and drapes loosely from the ,waist of the wearer below his hip portions to prevent portions of said rear section adjacent the crotch of the garment from gathering or wadding betucks whereby said upper section forms the rear half of the waist of the garment, and securing means on said front sections adapted to hold said front sections in closed relationship.

JAB/ES L. BLACK. 

